(Nearly) Complete Codex Deluxe component storage and travel approach

A few people were interested in how well Codex works with unofficial sleeves, and since I’ve had my copies for a few days I can give some concrete updates, as well as my other thoughts on storing/carrying all these great components.

I ordered two Deluxe sets, with the intent of being able to provide cards for my friends to play. I’ve been carrying a print and play set (without sleeves) around in my laptop bag/briefcase for the last few months, because opportunities to actually play have been sporadic and somewhat unpredictable. My goal has been to convert one of the sets into a relatively portable form to fit in the bag, so there will be a bunch of extra notes around that.

To be clear, I think the whole Deluxe set is amazing and a fantastic value, and I’m super pleased. I’ll note anything I would have found relevant if someone were explaining what everything was.


First, my general thoughts about the Deluxe set components:

  • I think the box is a very attractive design, as boxes go.
  • It’s very short/flat relative to its width and length, which makes carrying it around kind of awkward.
  • The Deluxe mats look and feel great. They’re a big part of the reason I got two sets. The text/images don’t have the crispness of the print on paper, but that’s to be expected with mouse mat material.
  • I haven’t tried actually playing with the 3 extra player boards. They look like they’ll resist staying quite as flat as one would hope, but I’m sure they’ll do in a pinch. They feel like basic card stock, not laminated or anything. They’re notably not thick boards like the ones in the starter or core sets. They won’t fit in a 8.5x11 page cover sheet like the print/play starter sheets, which was a neat carry method for my print and play set.
  • The marker tokens (runes) are great. I love that the damage/level markers are double-sided for the 1s and 3s. I also think the larger 2 gold pieces are great. There is just enough gold pieces for the 20/person maximum (I like separating out the pieces so the “you can never have more than 20 gold” rule is easily clear, even if someone new is playing and doing something weird). All in all, the tokens seem aimed at having enough for two people, so if you’re playing with more, be prepared to have substitutes.
  • I’m less fond of the double-sided +/- runes, just because I’d want more per set. Running out probably won’t actually be an issue in play without the +1/+1 rune exploit loops. I also kind of wish there were specific time runes, or specific “this hero is max level” runes. I also use (d6) dice for building health (I like the clarity of this method) and I know some people prefer dice for damage/level runes for heroes and units. As long as everyone is clear what means what, people can and will do what they want (I certainly did).
  • I prefer using dice to the dial for base health. I played a couple of games with just the official components, though, and the dial is super helpful if you don’t have dice. We flipped a damage token to see who went first, but the dials spin freely enough that it could be an option, too.
  • Fitting sleeved sets in all the binders makes the binders sort of puff up and makes it harder to get the box lid totally down again. This affected one of my sets more than the other, so your mileage may vary slightly with the binders.
  • The runes all sit in little designated spots and are easily retrieved due to the curved nature of the spots. It’s really usable. The combination of the binders puffing up and a slightly loose lid and the general awkwardness of the box makes for a likely scenario where they fall out because the box was put on its side.
  • All the non-Codex cards, even sleeved, don’t take up all that much space in the allotted area on the box, but if you sleeve everything you definitely need to put the Codex cards in your binders.
  • I ended up breaking that section into two horizontal spaces, and I’m keeping some spare sleeves/packaging in between the two sections. It actually works really well.
Box lid floating

You can see the box lid not sitting down all the way. It’s still quite secure.

Components in box

Here you can see the black binder is sitting above the designed space for it (it’s not sitting on the edge of that space, just the blue binder). You can also see how I arranged the starter/token/etc. cards horizontally, with the spacer cardboard in the middle (there are a bunch of spare sleeves next to the spacer). The top few mini cards want to slide out of their space if you sleeve them, but you can squish them down. You can also see some of the little markers have migrated to other sections after a car ride where it was mostly flat (I can’t fit it flat in my tiny trunk; it was sitting in the front passenger seat/footwell).


Thoughts on the binders:

  • They feel great in use. The cut pockets are great, they look nice, etc. The sides are rigid to protect the cards, which makes the binders a lot thicker than a 3-prong poly folder. One of my binders (out of 12) has bad seals along the top row of pockets on its pages, and another has weird ripples in the clear plastic on the back, so I plan on contacting ShipNaked about these to seek replacements (for at least the one that isn’t sealed). Both of them were in the same Deluxe set.
  • The sheets are sealed in; they’re not removable/replaceable in any way.
  • Each binder has three double-sided pages, so the middle page will have two cards on each side (holding a total of 36 across both sides). This is not a problem, thankfully. Some 18-pocket sheets I’ve tried for poly binders don’t handle this well, but the official binders handle it just fine.
  • Hopefully they hold up well over time, but if school was any indication, being carried around in bags is a great way to wear out binders. They’ll probably do much better in the Deluxe box.

I tested a few different types of sleeves for the full-size cards and with the official binders:

  • KMC Hyper Mat sleeves fit fine for both card and binder (this is what I’m using). I’m using clear mattes, and for the double-sided cards (a few tokens and the workers) it works fine, and the codex/hero/token/map backs are all clearly distinguishable.
  • KMC Perfect Fit sleeves also fit fine, mostly. As has been my (relatively limited) experience with the Perfect Fit sleeves, sometimes they’re tight enough to bend the cards a little, but the fit per sleeve varies just enough. So I’ll just say they’re on tight tolerances. There’s no issues with fitting them in the binder (being intended to go within traditional sleeves, this is not a surprise).
  • Double-sleeving the Perfect Fits within the Hyper Mats and then putting them in the binder is fine for the card, but the binder gets noticeably tight. I wouldn’t recommend it, and it’s probably not a good use of money anyway.
  • Some brand new Dragon Shield Matte Black sleeves I picked up fit both the cards/binders fine as well, and have a little more spare material at the top of the card as is typical for these sleeves.
  • My old set of Purple Dragon Shield sleeves fits the cards fine, and is probably the second tightest fit in the binder (after double-sleeved cards).
  • I did not get the official sleeves, so I can’t offer an opinion on them.

So, in short, you should be fine using whatever (single) sleeves your normally prefer with the cards and binders. This is a really important thing that they got right, since a lot of sleeves don’t fit well in various types of binder pages. I’m super happy with the official binders for play, but the big trade-off is that they’re relatively thick for just throwing a bunch in my laptop bag.

For the mini cards (spec choices and add-on buildings):

  • I only tried some Mayday Mini Chimera Game Sleeves (these were the non-premium type, they come in a pack of 100 with a red cover), which are officially 43mm x 65mm. They’re a little long (the 65mm bit) but fit perfectly on the sides. This form-factor isn’t available from a lot of the manufacturers, and my local store didn’t carry it so I ordered them from Amazon (which delayed this particular post).
  • The Premium ones say they’re 41mm x 63 mm, which is weird because that’s the size of the Mini-USA ones. I haven’t tried them, but suspect that’s just not going to fit, given the fairly perfect fit of the 43mm non-premiums.
  • I was worried I’d have to get the Mini Euro boardgame sleeves (officially 45mm x 68mm), which would be even longer, but didn’t end up trying them.
  • When all stacked up, they puff up a little and one or two wants to float out of the designated holding area in the deluxe box, but it’s not a big deal.

If anyone doesn’t like sleeves, by all means skip them, (especially for the mini cards which aren’t handled much anyway).

[details=Card fit in different sleeves]
Top row is (left to right): KMC Hyper Mat Clear, KMC perfect fit (one of the fairly tight ones, you can see the card bending a little)
Middle row: (new) Dragon Shield Matte Black, (old) Dragon Shield Purple
Bottom row: Ultra Pro black (bad hologram placement), Mayday Mini Chimera Standard (non-premium) sleeve

[/details]


Now, on to the portability challenge: How do I get an entire deluxe set into my briefcase, while still fitting my laptop, a tablet, and a laptop power cord?

Binders:

  • I’m not going to try to fit six separate official Codex binders in my bag. I’m concerned the wear on the official binders would make me sad, so I don’t plan on using them in my travel set.
  • I want to have all 20 specs with me (480 cards for the binders + workers, heroes, starter decks, tokens, etc.)
  • There aren’t a lot of binders that will carry 480 cards; notably the ones that do tend to be “playset” binders with 4x pockets across.
  • I ended up getting an Ultra Pro 4-Up Playset PRO-Binder, which has a terrible name, and it works pretty well. It’s sort of like two 2x4 binders attached to each other and then folded together. Because it actually has 480 separate pockets, it’s not intended to hold cards doubled up, although that works fine. To spread them out evenly, I avoided putting cards on both sides of any given page, so none of the pages get overloaded. I made it so each side has three colors and one of the neutral factions. Each spec is visible all at once, and a turn of the pages takes you two the next spec.
  • The 4-Up would actually be pretty playable as-is for someone who knew their cards really well. The cards slide in or out with a light touch, but won’t move accidentally. I definitely prefer the official recommendation that lets you see all the spells/Tech I options at once, though.
  • I’ll probably throw a cheap poly binder or two (with some 9-pocket sleeves) into the bag for actually playing. Without cards, they won’t add much bulk, and I won’t care if they get destroyed from sitting in the bag.
4-Up

Cards are sleeved in KMC Hyper Mats, 2x per slot

Other cards (heroes, workers, starters, tokens, maps, mini cards):

  • Ultimate Guard Twin Flip’n’Tray Xenoskin Deck Case 200+
  • That’s a lot of name, and it’s a little pricy. It works great, though. It holds all of the rest of the Deluxe set cards (in sleeves) and the runes. Really, all of them. I put the runes in a plastic bag and tucked them in the middle tray. The other cards were split across the two deck holders, and the mini cards stuck in at the edges. It’s a great fit; neither too tight nor loose.
  • It doesn’t fit the color dividers that come with the Deluxe set.
Cards and runes

The mats:

  • I’m not sure how I’m going to carry the Deluxe mats. Tubes are probably not going to fit well in my bag. I’m thinking maybe an Inked playmat bag? Does anyone have good recommendations?
  • The extra player mats are just a little long (folded into quarters, as they come) to fit safely tucked in poly binder, so I’m not sure if these are a good option. I might use the card stock printouts I made for the starters for extra travel mats (see print and play set description below)

Unofficial card storage for my print and play set:

  • I’ve been carrying the print/play set in some super cheap (paper) 3-prong folders with BMC 9-pocket top-loading sheets. 9-pocket is mildly annoying, because you have to grab cards from the back of the page when you’re looking at the left page when using the default arrangement. I haven’t found pages I like a ton for the real cards in sleeves, so don’t sweat this too much. If you’re looking to save money with the real cards and are buying everything piecemeal, just use and take care of the official binders in the Core set. If you’re doing print and play, you may have to do some more testing to be happy.
  • I kept the 8.5x11 starter boards printed on card stock in just a sheet cover within the folder with the neutral specs. It worked really well, and I might do this if I can’t find a way to get a full mat in my briefcase.
  • I just found some “Comix” brand poly folders that happen to come in a set of six with exactly the Codex colors (black/blue/green/red/purple/white) on Amazon for $10. It’s surprisingly difficult to find all six colors in one brand (and I wish it had brown for neutral), so this is a heck of an option.
  • All the non-binder cards fit in a single Ultra Pro PRO 100+ deck box (no sleeves). That’s true of my print/play set, and probably true of the real cards, too.

Playing with printed runes with the print and play was unpleasant. They were too thin, all had the same plain white backs, etc. I’ve been using a dice bag for all the runes/dice, which (before the early Codex shipment), I gradually upgraded the runes while waiting for the real sets. I keep them all in a dice bag, with the different rune types in separate little zip bags. These include:

  • Some miniature plastic poker chips in red and white, sold in little tubes. I got them to use red for 2, white for 1, same as Pandante (but much smaller). They’re kind of neat for being stackable, and I can easily cover 5 players with 1 tube of each color.
  • I was looking for a fantasy coin substitute I might like more, but before I got around to it, the real game shipped. I’ll probably stick with the official gold.
  • Chessex set of 36 small d6 dice
  • Some beautiful acrylic damage markers from Team Covenant (intended for a different game, but works great here). The 1s and 3s are different sizes/colors, so they’re easily distinguished at a glance. They came pre-painted.
  • Some acrylic hero level markers (we were also using them for corpse runes, or whatever non-heroes add up that need counting) from Team Covenent, again for that other game. The 1s and 3s are again obvious at a glance. They came pre-painted.
  • Some yellow hero max band markers, also from Team Covenant, designed for a second different game. I’m not 100% satisfied with the aesthetic, but I tried thinking of a different custom image for max band that was better and didn’t really find anything, so I just got these. They came pre-painted (and have an unpainted etched arrow design on the bottoms).
  • Some custom - and + runes from Advanced Deployment. If you dig around to find the “trinket” options, you can get these in packs of 10, which is the same size as the 1 damage tokens. I picked red/green transparent. The red acrylic is the same color as the Team Covenant 1 damage, which…I sorta wish wasn’t the case, but isn’t a big deal. I painted in the etchings with “White Scar Citadel Layer” paint from Games Workshop.
  • Some super-custom time runes from Advanced Deployment. The icon was royalty-free from gameicons.net, and I got them in the transparent purple color. As with the +/- runes, I painted in the etchings myself.
Custom runes

Official ones on top, mine on the bottom. Dice bag is from an etsy seller who no longer makes them, unfortunately.

As mentioned, I like the official runes a lot. I wouldn’t encourage anyone to get all these custom pieces for the print and play (where presumably the intent is to save money, and cheaper alternatives abound). I prefer my custom ones and will keep using them (alongside the official “other” and two-step runes, and probably the gold) for two-player matches at least. It’s great to have the official ones for whenever I manage to get a big group together to play all day.

Lastly, fitting it all in my laptop bag (except mats).

Briefcase

Top image has the cards and all my extra runes on the bottom of the briefcase, then the bottom image has the binder stacked on top. Laptop, tablet, and two (empty) poly covers with card pages are also inside. I could fit a couple of the extra player mats, but I’m not sure how to keep them from getting worn over time, and I’d like to find a way to bring the mouse mats.

23 Likes

Thank you for doing all this legwork, especially testing various sleeves in the official binders.

3 Likes

I knew that was the bit that would help the most people, but it was also the easiest to test. That last stretch goal to have the binder pockets cut to make them easier to use was pretty awesome, and I’m glad it pays off for everyone starting with the Core set, too.

1 Like

Awesome stuff, thanks for the amazing thoroughness! :+1:

2 Likes

Trying to make sure I order the correct amount of sleeves since my deluxe set is coming in soon.

You mention the deluxe having 480 binder cards + heroes, workers, etc. Do you mean a grand total of 480 cards all inclusive or is it actually 500+ cards that need to be sleeved.

Thank you for all of the work, your travel set looks great!

2 Likes

Thanks for the kind words.

Here’s a breakdown of all cards in Deluxe Set by storage type for travel and by back type (since colored sleeves will obscure the backs, you can use different sleeves by type if desired; I just went with clear matte for everything). I think if you buy the Starter Set, Core Set, and the forthcoming Blue/Black and Purple/White expansions, you get all these cards except the 12 map cards (which provide optional rule alterations, like Pandante casinos. I haven’t played with them yet, because the game is hard enough without changing the rules each time).


Total full-size cards: 672


Breakdown by Storage Type

  • In binder(s) - 480
  • Outside of binder(s) - 192

Breakdown by Card Back

[details=Default Codex Back - 560]* 480 for 20 specs with 24 cards each

  • 80 for 8 starters with 10 cards each (1 starter per color, 2 neutral starters)
    [/details]
Hero Back - 20

* 1 per spec

Token Back - 69
  • 6 Mercenaries for free-for-all mlultiplayer
  • 14 for Black
  • 5 for Blue
  • 22 for Green
  • 5 for Red
  • 6 for Purple
  • 11 for White
Double-sided - 11
  • 3 Dancer/Angry Dancer tokens for Finesse
  • 8 x4/x5 Workers (1 per starter)
Map Back - 12

* 12 maps (Deluxe exclusive)


Mini Cards

Total Mini Cards - 30
  • 5 Tower/Surplus cards
  • 5 Tech Lab/Heroes Hall cards
  • 20 Spec choice cards

Interesting - I was about to reply “over 700” based on my memory of what the campaign page said (and the fact that the tier I backed was the “Deluxe + 800 sleeves” one), but I trust you with the cards in your hand. I’ll post the list from the campaign page for comparison:

As we progress in this kickstarter campaign, we’ll be adding and upgrading things in this deluxe set. As of right now, it contains:

2 neutral hero decks from the Starter Set
3 red hero decks from the Core Set
3 green hero decks from the Core Set
3 blue hero decks from the Flagstone Dominion expansion
3 black hero decks from the Blackhand Scourge expansion
3 white hero decks from the Whitestar Order expansion
3 purple hero decks from the Vortoss Conclave expansion
8 starting decks: 2 neutral, 1 red, 1 green, 1 blue, 1 black, 1 white, 1 purple
12 exclusive map cards that change gameplay each game
5 Mercenary token cards to help with playing free-for-all
27 red and green token cards (Squirrel, Pirate, etc.)
19 blue and black token cards
17 white and purple token cards
20 mini-cards (one for each spec) + 10 mini-cards for add-ons (enough for 5-player free-for-all)
That’s over 700 cards!

But I don’t see anything that jumps out at me as being missing from your list.

1 Like

It hits 702 if you count the 30 mini cards.

Doh! Reading comprehension fail on your mention of “full-size” at the top. Carry on.

1 Like

Even if you could barely squeeze it out with 700 you’re going to want some matching extras for when some of the sleeves inevitably break.

1 Like

I got my game yesterday morning and sleeved everything last night.

I have to say I’m disappointed in the box. For all the effort that I know Sirlin puts in on the boxes-- I’ve heard him describe himself as a professional box-designer-- I don’t understand how the the box doesn’t work with sleeved cards. Particularly given that the game almost demands sleeves, as sliding cards into and out of the binder repeatedly would almost certainly lead to scratches and nicks to unsleeved cards.

I wish it would have been possible to produce binders without the third page. If the binders only had two pages, all 6 of them would fit in the box, even with sleeved cards. I’m tempted to try cutting the final page out, but without one or two to experiment on, I probably won’t.

I’m going to experiment tonight with removing the insert, to see if there’s a reasonable way to store everything that way. If it works, I’ll take a picture and post it to the thread.

He did the right thing, focusing on optimizing the shipping costs.
I plan to use the box to transport my game, so fitting 2/3 codices in will be ok for me.

The three pages is a huge quality-of-life change during gameplay. Front page can hold the starter deck, first two-page spread is all your spells/T1 that you have available every game, second two-page spread has your three options for tech 2/3.

If you try to fit all of that on two double-sided pages you’d spend a lot of time flipping back and forth, especially early game between spells/T1s.

5 Likes

So, I got my deluxe set with the sleeves included. I was having a good time filling every codex with the three specs, starter cards, heroes, worker card, and associated tokens. Then, when I tried to put it away, it wouldn’t fit. I’ve managed to reach a balance with the codexes only have the specs and two of the codexes being completely empty. Now the binders fit and the rest of the cards actually fit snuggly in the card area. It works, and I’m happy to have everything in the box with the lid all the way down, but I was really hoping I could just keep all of the codexes fully assembled.

Oh well. Now I just need a way to transport my extra playmats.

1 Like

Having backed deluxe + sleeves + 4 extra mats, I was determined to do everything in my power to make it all fit in the box, and having read some of the other threads about how counters would shift in their places during transport, and the binders being too thick to stack in the insert’s well, I tossed the insert very early.

I sleeved all the starters and specs and loaded them into the binders (page 1 heroes, worker, starters, and specs; page 2 magic; page 3 ultimates and T1s; page 4 & 5 T2s & T3s, page 6 tokens) and yeah, the stack in the insert was a binder and a half too high for the box:

Image

So I tossed the insert, and reused one of my DIY binders from my PnP for the neutrals (same layout as above), organized the counters into various sizes of my favorite messy-counter-pile-preventers (salsa/sauce cups!), stuck the Mercenary tokens, Map cards, and add-ons into an emtpy sleeve box, and voila!

Image

That’s 4 binders + the very flat neutral binder + rulebook on the left, 2 binders on the right. Here’s everything with 5 rolled-up mats on top, with plenty of clearance for the lid to close all the way and sit flush on the bottom:

Image

Of course, if my anticipation is correct and I’ll find myself wanting to be able to oversee 3 separate 2-player games at once, I needed to fit the 6th mat in there, so if I rearrange just a bit I made it work, but the box lid can’t quite sit flush, given the thickness of the rolled-up mats:

Image

I picked up this 5-piece set of spindown d20s to use for base health (one of each color except purple - the smaller clear blue non-spindown d20 is just an extra of mine), and added a 12-piece set of d6s for Tech building health, and I’m good to go!

Image

Now to get some games in…

10 Likes

Just put an extra blank line before the details tag, and the images will hide properly. Props to @EricF for the how-to-use-the-forum thread where I learned that.

Edit: Also, seriously nice solution. I might have to do the same for my non-travel set. I’m still trying to find binder pages I actually like though for the extra play folders for my travel set, which will likely make an update to the main post (because I have three different types I definitely don’t like).

3 Likes

Nice, thanks!

Best of luck with that - we’re pretty spoiled with the custom-cut top-loaders in the binders! I’m using 9-pocket side-loaders in my DIY Neutral and they work well enough for my purposes. Better now with the real cards and official sleeves than they were with my PnP in penny sleeves, anyway!

A few people have posted some similar threads about upgraded Deluxe storage or game pieces or whatever. Feel free to post your own ideas here if you want to help keep things all in one place. I didn’t want to hijack a sleeves thread when I created this one, but this one is deliberately more general, so hijack away!

If you’re planning on storing the game in the Deluxe box and have it sleeved, I found a neat trick!

There’s still some room left in the card bay if you keep the Specs in the binders, but you can fill it with an empty sleeve box! Slides in pretty tight, but it doesn’t bulge the container at all, pretty much making it a perfect fit for your sleeved Starter Decks and Tokens when not in use.

6 Likes

I’ve done the same, only with extra sleeves in the sleeve box in case any need replacing.

3 Likes